Staying fit with my husband.

Pre-climbing breakfast

Once a week my husband and I have breakfast together a la Andrew. Full of protein and Mediterranean herbs. Yummm. Now off to Calshot in the rain for a jolly climb.
I always find it scary but that is O.K.

Some height statistics.

7565m climbed in 9 days. Not quite Everest but close enough!!!!
7175 m descended.

And of course Laroma is about 500 m higher than Albunuelas. Hmmmmm.

Journey nearly over.

Spanish buses

Well we've had a quiet and calm journey to Malaga bus staton, and drove through lovely scenery. The bus was full but very civilised. It had come all the way from Barcelona througthe night so no wonder the driver was a bit tired!
And now I am at the airport. Buses run every 20 mins from bus station to airport and only cost 2 euro. I have managed to get 15 mins free wifi here and so am sending my penultimate blog entry from Spain😥.
But I sat in the sun and read my book . I will finish it in the next 50 mibs so might have to get another one for the plane.
Only complaint about airport is at the moment all the seats outside are in the shade. Doh!@!

30 minutes late leaving Guadix

Rather stressed driver. But at least I have a seat on the bus and all is well. The sun is rising and it looks like being a beautiful day. I was lucky enough to get a window seat too!

Early start

Well there was no chance of oversleeping! As well as about 4 alarm clocks the hotel staff rang me at exactly 6. And very luckily there is an open cafe near the bus station, so I don't have to hang around on my own in the dark in shorts.
Because of course i slept very badly worrying I would not wake in time for the bus so I need a large coffee con leche .
There are about 12 people in the bar, all men.
About 6 of them are young and seem to be drunk. They are drinking orujo. They are very loud like a flock of starlings
The other 6 are old and drnking some local clear drink that looks like aniseed.
And now I am off. A luego

Sunburnt but happy.

Just come in from the balcony.
Thinking of jambas al pil pil (prawns and garlic. Yummmm..)

The downtrodden side of Guadix

The view from my hotel balcony

I am starting to be quite assertive... not like me at all! I pretty much demanded a balcony and have got a great one. Pri ate and with tables and chairs. I think about an hour in the sun will do it though. It must be about 35 degrees in the sun. I am wearing my swimming costume and factor 15 sun cream. I still think I might burn a bit. It is far and away the hottest day.
Hotel has free wifi.
I am going to make the most of my last day here

A mirador near Guadix

Living like precious hobbitses in Guadix.

So several thousand people in Guadix live in cool and practical houses dug into the hills. Most of them have electricity and many of them have cars and laptops too. I went round a cave museum and learnt quite a lot about which rooms were in the older caves and the kind of rock they were built from. Clay and sandstone which are not good rocks for climbing on unfortunately.
I have just come back from a 2 hour HOT walk round the town, finished off with a chocolate and pistachio ice-cream which was gorgeous. I paid 5 Euro for a buffet breakfast at the hotel (no tostadas for me thanks!). It turned out to be gorgeous, and included some amazing cakes which I ate.
I also checked out where the bus station is and figure it is about 30 mins from my new hotel which I will check into shortly. That means a proper early start, and I gaven't done one of those for a while!
Anyway I think Guadux is a pretty cool place with plenty to see and do.I have taken hundred of photos and will send more later when I hace wifi.

And another view

First impressions of Guadix

The history and culture here is something I haven't encountered the like of before. The moorish stuff - seemingly made of small red brickx - is just huge. There are also mediaeval, Jewish and more recent influences.
The most outstanding building was the fort at La Calahorra on the way here. It just seemed unreal. I rubbed my eyes but it didn't go away!
Guadix is going to be really good fun to explore tomorrow. I really want to see the cave dwellings. All the shops are going to be closed due to Semana Santa but at least i know. And I am only 10 minutes from the bus station for Friday morning..
It is BLOODY HOT😇😇😇😇

Problems getting a taxi...

Everyone in Laroma has been very helpful . I found a random man whose brother is a taxi driver but he is in Granada today. Then another man was found but he is in Granada as well. Now I am waiting for the first man Paco to get back from Granada. In the meantime I am drinking cerbeza in the sun and getting even more sunburnt.
I wonder if Guadix will be as nice to me as the Alpujarras has been.

At Valor

Valor is a fabulous place. It sort of feels like the Bath of the Alpujarras. Whereas Lanjaron was the Swindon. Perched regally along a valley with fabulous views to the south. There is the heady scent of lemon blossom i think everywhere. I could happily stay here.
I can almost forgive the GR7 route for tempting my down into a succession of overgrown ravines with the promise of ancient iron-rich springs (undrinkable i think ) and a roman bridge (which was closed for repairs).
There was a perfectly good road following the contour lines all the way here. Mustn't grumble though. The weather is gorgeous... Off to Laroles. I don't want to go home.

Check it out!!!!

Laroles

Mairena

Check out this place!!! Having some lomo and pan and a diet coke here. Very hot day but a gorgeous breeze.

Breakfast in Yegen

I am finally getting the hang of this breakfast thing. If they insist on offering tostadas then make sure you ask for   tomatas with it and NOT marmalade. The dry crunchy experience becomes pizza for breakfast. Yum.
So off to Laroles today for the last days walking. It is already hot with an almost cloudless blue sky. I have just enough clarins moisturiser left (a mini version) to get my home.
Last night I had another salad and some sort of flatfish. It tasted lovely but was very bony. I treated myself to a glass of orujo afterwards and watched an old version of "Titanic" dubbed into Spanish.

Gerard Brenans house

I am thinking of going straight to Guadix from Laroles and sleeping in a cave for 2 nights. Seriously. Bank holidays in Spain, rip off taxis and a very large mountain are influencing me. And sore knees too.

A typical path. Not too bad. But always steep.

In Yegen with my favourite tapas

Too much to say. The most stunning walk from Golco to Yegen. Like garden of Eden. So many trees, herbs and flowers in bloom. I took loads of photos.
Met the germans. Lady injured from fall after scare with dogs in Canar and so staying in Berchules. I remember same dogs... was only 10 minutes ahead. A lesson to me!
Sad news... a local weird bloke (about 80) tried to talk to me and is now sitting across road watching me. Bugger. I wonder what G Brenan would have done. I am going to ignore him as I am very happy with my spot in the Sun. Then I am going to find my accomodation and check out where Gerard lived in this remote hilltop village.
The GR7 guide predicted 5 hours to get here from Cadiar. I took over 6 - admitedly  with 2 stops. The last 2 km was nasty. Dry and very steep uphill along forestry tracks. Think Mordor without Gollum or the Orcs. But no Sam either. It was oly so painful because I had deluded myself into thinking I had arived, so was very disappointed.
Weird bloke is still sat there not saying anythink. I might have to go. 

Yegen

Puffed

At Mechina Bambaron

Well THAT WAS EPIC!! I left me stick at the cafe at the top of town (Doh!) 😮in Berchules so had to go back for it. Uphill of course for about 10 minutes. Then I got lost escaping from what is otherwise a really charming and beautiful place. Then down down into a canyon followed by up up up and gleefully ALONG a contour line to this place. For a mixed salad and diet coke breakfast  in the sun.
I have used ibuproprofen gel on my knee today and it has worked. So downhill from here to Yegen. Yippee!!!
Still gaving a marvellous timexx

Get the point yet??

At Berchules

It is all rather lovely around here although the poverty is apparent. People I speak to don't seem too miserable though.
The power has just gone off in the cafe where I am enjoying my second cafe con leche. I think I might have a small breakfast later. Luckily there is an electrician to hand!
I have met too spanish ladies walkingvthe GR7 east to west. They said the next bit (for me) is very steep. Muchas Gracias! I had kind of worked that one out for myself!!! Onwards and upwards to Mecina Bombaron.

Read the facts and ask yourself why!

Tired. Need voffee

No tostadas for me yoday. I had cerdo de gazpacho (which is a sort of chickpea tripe stew) last night followed by scrambled eggs and suffered the almost inevitable chickpea belly. Nice. It feels like having a balloon inserted in your tummy.
So I was asleep by 9 and had another massive sleep of about 10 hours.
I have been sleeping for hours since I've been here. Sun, strenuous exercise and red wine.... last night I had another nasty dream about falling down steep steep hill. But some of these paths are quite perilous.
I will be glad not to pack my rucksack any more. I had to search 4 rooms this morning!! The weather looks good again..... dry with scattered clouds for a bit of relief. And so off to Yegen.

An image of Spain

Ham being hammed in Trevelez this morning

A rioja for my dad

In Cadiar. The sun has finally arrived on my balcony. The radio is playing "Our house" by Madness. Happiness.

Timar

There have been some glitches getting wifi sorted out, and I am struggling to get to grips wih renting a 2 bedroom apartment with kitchen sitting room and t.v  for only 20 euro . I have a balcony too with a view of the mountains. I am in the north part of Cadiar which sets me up well for a northerly start in the morning.
I should go to Narila first, then Bercrules, then Mecina Bombaron, and finally over some hills to Yegen. Strange names.
Whoever designed this route wants their head read. If they could see a hill they have gone over it. Follow a contour line? That's for suckers. Tomorrow I will ascend 1030m and descend 910m to give my poor suffering knees yet more pain. Tiday I ascended 615m and desended 1150m betwen Trevelez and Cadiar.
I think I will have climbed Kilimanjaro and maybe Everest by the time I get to La Calahorra - my ultimate destination. I am completely serious. I am keeping a record of all the ups and downs!!

Another lovely walk and safe in Juviles. I don't like it much. On to Cadiar.

Swallowtail

The walk to Cadiar was beautiful again (despite a little glitch withvsome gypsy types and the O2 Nazis at Juviles). Amazing butterflies, birds, trees and flowers. Fantastic cliffs ravines and gorges.
I had a coffe c l in a small bar in  Juviles and was offered tostada. Which I spurned in polite disgust. Dry crunchy bread. What is the point? I had some for breakfast and am resolved to have no more.
Now I am in a bar for ex-pats in Cadiar which is full of chavs and ex-Pats. The television is ralking about selfies. I am quite disgusted with myself for being here but they have free wifi. Cadiar is big and not pretty either. But I prefer it to Lanjaron.It has a more honest feel about it. Lanjaron just seemed so pretentiius.
The most beautiful place I saw today was an amazing tiny ancient village called Timar. And the walk from Juviles to Timar was wonderful. And the whole walk from Trevelez to Juviles was great apart from the last km, when the GR7 signs went away with the fairies. Walkers beware! The GPS was a lifesaver... I am so impressed with everything and can see why people come and live here. But I will be glad to get away from this bar. The landlady dud some run and is complaining about pain in her "right arse cheek". I can get over that but she has called me "lovie" twice. 
Actually I might have another beer here. I think I must be homesick. But not for pub lunches!!!!

Monday morning in Trevelez

The weather is quite cool at 8 in the morning but the sky is blue and I think it will be another lovely days walking alongvthe side ofcthe valley to Cadiar.
My mission in another life is to get the voice recognition software working well enough to talk to blogger... that would make blogging much faster, easier and more "live". Even with a Sasung Galaxy Note 3 and magic pen it is difficult and slow Breakfast isn't until 9 and will be tostada and coffee unless I ask for some huevos revueltos (scrambled eggs) and ham which I absolutely love. So this is Day 7. I am getting closer to Gerard Brenan's patch.... more later.

Trying to give an idea of the Alpujarras white villages

Just to give you an idea...

In case you thought I was exagurrating (why did i try to spell such a stoopid word) about the hills.

Some thoughts.

Number of people seen on GR7 today = zero. Metres ascended = 955m. Metres descended = 675m. Scale of soreness of right knee = 12/10. But I am so glad I decided not to get the bus today. Don't know why I felt so ropey this morning but 100% better now. The walk through the gorse and pine for most of the day was stunning. And the guide books speak wisely about avoiding the avalanche area and staying on the forest road. Good advice to be sure. The temperature was perfect for walking and I feel as if I have finally acclimitised to these bloody hills. Tempting fate i know x

Doesn't get much better thn this

So this is definitely the best place I have stayed in so far. Own balcony, feels warm and cosy. t.v., effective shower, and best of  all LOADS IF SHOPS AND OPEN RESTUARANTS WHICH AREN'T UPHILL!!! I could come back here. Trevelez is big and quite touristy but still feels like a large village in the Alpujarras. Lanjaron was rather horrible.
The view from the balcony is really wonderful. I think I am the only guest so they have given me the best room. I don't know if there is free wifi but I don't really care. There is quite loud spanish music from the cafe next door which I am enjoying after the solitude of the day. I wonder if there will be late night drinking/noise?.
There is even a cashpoint in the square so I can get some money out.
I am rather sad to think that Day 6 out of 10 is coming to an end. This is a great adventure.

At Busquistar

So I decided to walk here, which is only 4 km from Pitres. It is a beautiful day and I feel much better. So i am going to slog uphill to Trevelez. After all, who would want to sit in the sun eating ham and drinking rioja all day?

Trevelez. Arrived

First views of aTrevelez

Hamon JAMON JAMON JAMON

Recharging the batteries

Well if a glass of freshly squeezed zumo de naranja and a cafe con leche doesn't recharge me I don't know what will.. It is very peaceful here. I was the one person here for supper at 8 and now am the only person here for breakfast at 9.
I had a local speciality last night.... some sort of black pudding sausage with fried red peppers and potatoes. All swimmingvin oil of course. Delicious!.

Heavenly places here on Earth

The view from my room at hotel san roque in Pitres

Hotel sa roque

Well some may smile to think of Auntie Roc staying at the Hotel "Saint Roc". I am far from saintly. But the room is gorgeous. It has a t.v., two beds, a cot, and the usual bath shower and bidet. It just needs a clothes line. Don't even think it Andrew😬.
I have washed clothes. My blue t shirt can be seen drying on my balcony, which has a stunnng view. I tried to wash the pine resin off my vargo stove and titanium mug with minimal success. Even an oceanographer hates wrecking sinks. Needs meths I think
I am going through the procedure of charging A's gadget so I can then charge my phone. Very tedious indeed. But sitting in the sun without a care in the world works for me. I am having a very good time.

Safe at Pitres

There is too much to say for my clumsy fingers, although I have just rememered the pen that comes with the phone and am using it. 5 layers including buff and gloves at the start of the day.. Yes Andrew I needed both my fleeces!! Now in shorts and a T shirt at Pitres.
It was 4.5 hours of descent. I met more walkers near the refugio, intent on conquering Mulhacen. It was 5 degrees at the refugio and the wind chill was horrific. My contact lenses nearly froze onto my eyes. Anyway I want to enjoy my cerbeza now. I have certainly deserved it. But I wouldchave cried if I'd had to go up any more big hills today. Now lets see if the promsed wifi signal works.

The highest point for me on this trip. 2600m. Phew.