Sunset over Mulhacen

It got cooler in the night and I was beseiged by bad dreams... Mainly about family members dying in hoŕrible ways. It might be an effect if the altitude, whch I'm told can do this to people. I gad a lovely evening talking with spaniards and takung photos of the local wildlife. Supper was amazing. Four courses1. Asparuggus soup 2  Pasta 3  sausages and bean and pepper salad 4. Chicolate mousses with nuts on. Just the fuel needed for a long and windy descent to Pitres. I am writing this in my dormitory which I am sharing with a father and son team from Madrid. They are also findung the lical accent hard to understand whuch is a relief to me! They just speak so fast here.  And now off to photograph that sunrise for my father. He also needs to know that the local cerbeza is nothing like our lager. And the local red wine - the rioja - is absolutely divine.

At Poquiera

Since there is free (but slow) wifi here I feel lucky to keep in touch and write my blog. There are only spanish people here which is fine. They are all very friendly. I met the most unusual chap in the way here. David from England. With a very Eton accent. Was heading for Gibraltar because he really misses a good pub lunch. He spoke longingly about beef and "old Blighty". But he shared my nostalgia for our wonderful Ordnance Survey maps so I was really glad to meet him. Doing the GR7 like me but going east to west. And like me he couldn't pass so close to the mountains without going up them.
In retrospect, heading west in the morning would be a better idea. I have found my sun visor an essential piece of kit as the sun has been directly in my face first thing most mornings. But there you go. In fact, the kit i have with me has all been useful except the spare pair of trousers (but it has been exceptionally hot) and the extra fleece which I call a windproof coat. And yes Andrew you can say i told you so... Supper is being served at about 8.30 I think. It isn't very clear to me but it just seems late!

Change in weather..

Map of where I am and half way to destination... Poqueira Refugio
There is a big change in the weather today which ought to be a relief. I intend climbing 11 km uphill from pretty and touristy Capileira. It is cloudy and threatens rain. I will start a bit later today and get some provisions for the next 24 hours. Bread cheese and ham and some oranges will do just fine. The best of the local foods! I will get a weather forecast after breakfast. Scrambled eggs with jam... another local treat invariably well seasoned with lots of salt and paprika sprinkled round the edge of the plate. Yummmmy!
I really ache today, mainly my back. It is tempting to sit down and write postcards all day but I do want to see the Sierra Nevada a bit closer and maybe make a little snowman. I am not wearing shorts today for the first day. But it feels warm if a bid humid.

Weird things on the way to the Refugio Poquiera. I nearly turned round a few times on the way up...what a slog. I think I was so knackered because of the long hot day yesterday. It must have taken it out if me.

It was only 11 km but it took 4 hours. There was rain at the start, and then it got roasting hot again. So it was back  into the shorts again.

About 30 mins from the refugio

Mad snowman

Me at Canar this morning

Hostal Atalaya Capileira

Well I feel very much deserving of the beans and ham I am about to eat,  "judias verdas y hamon" is a treat I love. I am rather red and very tired but the aches will  pass. I am looking forward to heading into the mountains to the refugio poqueira tommorrow. Definitely off piste. This is quite a touristy place but I like it. Bubion was charming but so so steep! Now to check out the weather for tomorrow and the snow levels. Todo va bien. Tiene wifi...

Statistics.

Climbed 1200 m with many ups and downd , walked 27.3 km (17 miles), averaged 2.5 mph as usual. This is something I can do. Are there any jobs for professional walkers. But I wish I had a friend here now to be honest.. Other walkers today (serious ones and not touroids) = 2 and they were the germans. Don't mention the war.

Supper

And for the healthy option...

At Canar

The most beautiful days walking so far. Wow. But it is only 11 and already very very hot. But a coffee con leche will energise me. It only took 2 hours here from Lanjaron and much was uphill. Feeling good and loving the walking. Acequias are awesome.

Hurrah! Made it to Capileira!!!

Well i feel quite proud of myself and very sweaty indeed. What a beautiful place... The three villages on the way up have a mediaeval feel about them. Bubion is all at 45 degrees and right angled bends. I bet nobody has street mapped it. So I am off the GR7 now and almost immediately  managed to loose the footpath. I had to throw my rucksack over a wall and then snagged my shoulder on barbed wire in my anxiety to escape from a non-existant bull. Doh. I think I have probably climbed an immense height today. I will do the stats later. For now i am just here with my health and a beer in the sun and that is more than enough for me.

It is so past beer o clock...

Whose bright idea was it to walk in these effing mountains anyway.....

Oh my god...

That is my destination today and beyond into the snow tomorrow. Clouding over a bit so looks ominous...

Translator needed

Still not sure about Lanjaron. It feels a bit like Bath to me....touristy and fake. I had a drink with the german couple and we talked about the state of Europe. Sigh. Better the enemy you know I suppose.... Then watched football at the hotel bar with a gorgeous supper of mixed salad, scrambled eggs with mushrooms (juevos revueltos y champingones) and bread. Yummm. Breakfast at 8.30 tomorrow so I will be chasing the germas all day. Phone battery is on 9 % after about 3 hours on charge. Hmmm. Buenas noches x

Morning of 10 April

Well the weather forecast is good as you can see and I am feeling fit. And hungry. I have long walk today, maybe 8 hours, and in retrospect it would probably have been wiser to leave much earlier as I think this afternoon might get dreadfully hot. However desayuno is includido so I will have some so set me up for the day. It will probably be tostada and coffee.I am going further than the germans today so will probably lose them, but oddly I rather like them and will look out for them when I rejoin the GR 7 at Pitres. I am going slightly off the Gr7 for the next 2-3 days which is why the phone charging situation is rather a pain. I can only charge it from Andrew's gadget, which takes several hours. I wish I had thought to bring a real paper book with me. Sod the weight! Now for breakfast. A luego mis amigos x

While i write my blog...

Arrived safe in Lanjaron.Whew.....

The first 2 km were along the gorge that Albunuelas sits on. Then about 3 km of up up up on a narrow path which was fun, and then along forestry paths for most of the day. I passed many examples of EU money being mis-spent on pontless miradors, and ornate but ugly fountains in the middle of nowhere whose water was non -potable. Lunacy. The weather was stunning and the fruit groves serene. I saw the Med and maybe Africa. But tge bit of haze was quite a welcome althkugh i still got a bit red. I am not sure what to make of lanjaron yet but the beer and pincho will help me decide.

Niguelas behind me

Hostel Almora Niguelas

Almora is a really great hostel, but has no fridge and they only bought a kettle this afternoon! So in this heat shopping for breakfast was interesting. I bought an orange and a tin of fish. And for once I got no bread with my mixed salad for supper. So that should be a really healthy meal for a change. I need to make up some massive meals last weekend.

The lovely dutch couple

I met the interesting dutch couple from Rotterdam and had a beer with then. Then I spent the afternoon walking around in the vicinity of Niguelas. I saw caves that were once inhabited, lots of moorish acequieas, and white buildings of course. Altogether a lovely end to the day. Now for a mixed salad and a red wine at my favourite bar with free wifi. I have met the inevitable german couple following the GR7 but they are amazingly 4not booking ahead! Makes me feel like a control freak...

Arrived at Niguelas

Just in case you didn't feel slightly envious of my walk today. What stunning scenery and fruit trees. I stole an orange from a tree and it was gorgeous. 15 km and some big hot steep hills on the way. But no blisters, no sun burn and no doodoo bites. I have really enjoyed myself. 4.5 hours walking. Number of other walkers met is 2. Hours of rain is 0. I am here quite early and might cook myself a healthy supper in hostal Almora tonight. I wonder if anyone else will be there? I do seem to have a knack of avoiding other tourists. There are supposed to be some inhabited cave dwellings here so i will check them out.  My phone battery still reads 54% so is holding up well. Hurrah!

28 degrees.

You would not believe the heat here. Really a bit too much for the first day before acclimitisation. First view of Niguelas and looking forward to long cold drinm when i get there!

No make up selfie on GR7

Saleres

Weather in Albunuelas 6 p.m. 7 April

The GR7 colour scheme

Weather at Bournemouth 6 April 5 p.m.

Yeah whatever. Some of the stuff in fitness mags is just barking mad....

Waiting to go

En arriva...

The eagle has landed in Albunuelas

Albunuelas at last.What a pretty village and a white knuckle bus journey here from Granada. I was the only tourist in the bus so I have certainly come to the right place. Free wifi in the square.. the password is "esgratis". I am going to like it here. The scenery looks stunning - not flat to say the least - and the technology is starting to work at last!!

Day of departure - Day 1 at home for now

Salisbury Cathedral in the background. Fire in my heart. Soon salmon , eggs and tomatoes in my belly, thanks to my dear husband Andrew. The weather forecast is GOOD in Spain. Shame about Wiltshire.... I hope I can be as tough as I need to be.

Garden on 5 April

Part of my kit list for tomorrow

Mustn't forget my crocs!!!

The first 3 days

Here is the kit list... T minus 2 days. I have printed off my boarding passes and am ready to go. I just need to check my phone works in Spain (and that is only because I have my maps and books on it...)

6 days to go

Getting ready. Pack weighs 8.5 kg and can't get it lighter.  Felling fit and fully trained. Maps all sorted and have downloaded many books to read including Gerard Brennans "South ti Granada". Can't wait for Sunday!

Practice route 28 March

http://my.viewranger.com/track/details/gpx/786281

http://my.viewranger.com/route/preview/MjIwNDEw

My walk today with Andrew - in training for starting part of the GR7 (from Albunuelas) next week.

My irish dancing chums on St Patricks Day 2014

Training for a long walk in Spain.

Thinking of where to start - Albenuelas - 7 April 2014

Bizarrely enough, I think that starting in the right place is just as important as ending in a good place. I will remember both equally - probably the start more as I will be fresh from work.  And there is no real logic in where to start. You can look at time, distance, logistics, and do loads of calculations. At the end of the day Albenuelas looks good to me. I blame Google Earth because I managed a "virtual" walk along a river valley which was described (in a random blog) as fertile and rich with olives. It looked lovely too (on Google Earth). But I am sure the reality will be better, whatever the weather.

Red Yew near Downton

Hmmmm... The blood of the corpses beneath?

Spring in my step

Well, i have booked my accommodation on thr GR7 for this April. Still not sure if i can get to Poqueira refuga as a) it is possibly above the snowline and b) I would need to carry a sleeping bag. Hmmmm. Photo at the Top of Mt Maroma (2056 m) on Dec 28th 2013

 

Test Page

Route for GR7 APRIL2014

Christmas near Competa

Caves near Competa - not as stunning as the fabulous Caves of Nerja though!
I am planning on walking part of the GR7 in Andalucía this April, and we revisited Spain this Christmas to get a taster.

So I will be updated the blog (so long as my phone will talk to the websites!!) Watch this space.

 

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Blog done. Over and Out for now...

That is the Camino done for this year, so I must rather sadly (I admit) stop sending these thoughts and pictures into the ether. It has been fun, and I have really appreciated the comments I have read and just knowing people are following my progress.
I wish I had something profound to say at this moment, but all i can think is that we all have to follow our dreams, and i think the Camino is about finding out which particular bright star/dream/idea inspires you to keep moving forwards. For me I am realising that I need space to myself, and both love and fear people. I let very few people close.
But the love and kindness I have received from  people I have met are what will stay with me most potently, especially from the Spanish people I have met on buses and in shops.
My great faith that most people in the world are lovely and good has not been shaken, and that gives me huge joy and confidence that I can walk out on more less-trodden paths and have more adventures!
I have attached a picture of me at Campceberros, and a sunrise on the same day. I would really like to go here again... It was a beautiful location and there was lots to see.

So until the next trip, Buen Camino amigos!!

P.S. I will post soon with distances between my stops for anyone interested. If you have any questions while it is fresh in my mind, email me at: rachel@eveling.net

Plaza de Lavapies

Having got thoroughly hot after exploring Madrid, it was still too early to go to the train station.
So I stopped for a cool white wine in a lovely bar on Calle Leon, which had 150 year old tiles on the wall (example attached).
Then I saw a place on a map called Plaza de Lavapies, and I decided to go there and see if I could wash my feet. A bit random I know, but I feel surprisingly chilled out at the moment! For once in my life I am NOT going to be 2 hours early for my flight.
Anyway Plaza de Lavapies is certainly not a place to wash your feet, unless you bring your own water, soap and towel. There isn't even a fountain there!
However, it does seem to be the centre of (central) Madrid's Afro-Caribbean and Indian community. So there were shops selling Bob Marley memorabilia, and masses of Indian restaurants and curry houses. Most strange.
The Spanish areas seemed to be in siesta mode, but the area near Lavapies was lively.
Anyway my feet are still very hot as I am wearing my walking socks and shoes today. But I feel as if I am finally slowing down.  
I can really see why the Spanish people have siestas.... It is too hot to do anything at the moment.

An English woman has just come into this bar saying that her 2 friends are drunk and she is looking for some weed for them. She doesn't speak any English...I am NOT going to get involved!!