Cape Wrath Trail

Cape Wrath Trail
Carrying 25 kg and feeling good

Thursday 31 March 2016

In Pitres on 31 March

So I've checked in early to the green sheep apartments in Pitres. Had an interesting walk here. First of all I had to climb up from Capileira;  it was very cold but with views over the snowy mountains. I nearly put my buff and gloves on!! Then I followed the contours through some massive holm oak forests and finally found the sun.. Then I got into the mediaeval village of Capilleroa which is gorgeous and finally into Pitres.. I'm going to go for a walk now down to some of the other mediaeval villages and hopefully they'll be somewhere I can get my salad.
There seems to be really pretty fast Wi-Fi here so I'm hopeful that I can download some photos. I'm also really impressed with my apartment I've got a kitchen sitting room with television bedroom and bathroom of course. It's absolutely lovely. 

Beer o clock in Pitres

There is an absolutely Baltic wind today. I have  I have persevered with drinking my beer but now I am back at the hotel and I'm going to Warm upt with a hot shower and put some trousers on. I'm struggling slightly with my blog on my iPad and I think this time the photos might be in very strange places. Photos are of some of the mediaeval villages maybe between four and 500 m down hill from Pitres. Of course I had to walk back up the hill again. I just can't get enough of those hills. 

About 6 miles SE of Lanjaron on the GR7

In Capileira

Well this is a bit of alright. I must be fitter than I was last time I did this walk because it wasn't too bad. Not carrying all the oranges, tomatoes and the extra book helped too. And the slight haze just took the edge off the heat.
So I am enjoying a beer and a tapas and will then check in to Hostal Atalya. I need to wash some clothes because my rucksack shoulder straps are soaking wet - a measure of how much I have sweated today.
I met some other tourists. Germans of course but really nice. Mrs and I spoke for about 5 minutes in quite good Spanish before Mr said he was German... My accent must be quite convincing then!!!
I'm going to explore Capieira properly this afternoon and I am DETERMINED to get a salad for supper. I really can't live off meat bread olives cheese and beer? Can I....?? 

Tuesday 29 March 2016

Lucky in Orgiva

Well I certainly got my luck back in Orgiva. I have the most amazing view from my room which has a balcony and I think in about an hour the sun will be on it. So I am looking forward to a glass of wine as the sun sets.
 I've just come back from a lovely 4 mile walk down along the dry river valley and passed some of the most beautiful olive trees I've ever seen. They are absolutely ancient. Some of them must be well over 1000 years old. So I have taken loads of photos of them and I'll attach some here.
This is the nicest room I stayed in so far as well. It was designed sensibly and has things like hooks to hang your toilet bag on. Of course it has a bidet which I have no intention of using. The toilet was sealed. 
I think I must come here with Andrew because the mantle of ages (This was me saying man who talks for ages ) in the tourist office mentioned climbing and you wouldn't believe what predictive text comes up with. But I think Andrew would like it here. In fact there is nothing to dislike; it's an interesting shabby rambling place with beautiful plants and trees and loads of fabulous walks and history.
Enough. I had scrambled eggs and bacon with toast for breakfast and has been kept going by the Tapas I got with a beer until now (beans and some barely dead fried fish) But I think I will go down and have a proper supper in the bar. Hopefully something local although it might end up being cod and chips unless I'm prepared to wait until about 9 o'clock to eat in the restaurant. That's the only trouble with having supper in Spain.
Tomorrow is the big day. I know I will have to climb a least 1000 m and that's assuming I don't go downhill at all so it will be a big slog up. But after today's dry difficult descent i'm fairly sure that going up will be easier than going down.

Lovely walk to Orgiva

I had a lovely and short walk to Orgiva today. The uphill bit was sharp and a real pulse-raiser. The flattish bit was gorgeous and really Wild West. There were horses and a fabulous cortijo with its threshing circle and a very primitive building. 
Dogs were a real issue today. I had to resort to Andrew's trick of bending down and pretending to pick up a stone. In fact I did pick up several stones. And almost threw them at a particularly nasty dog that looked like a cute Westfield but was really going for my ankles. 
The downhill bit was horrendous... Dry loose stone and grit made it like scree running. I was way slower downhill than uphill.
Orgiva is interesting. There is no sense of up and down leading to a central core, so I keep getting lost and going round in circles. The people are dark-skinned and remind me of photos of guerillas I have seen in Spain before.
After I have checked in I am going to walk a 5km route to look at some ancient olives. The other choice of an 8 km route to see some old mines just goes up too high. I need to save my knees for the 1000 m minimum ascent tomorrow!
One other thing. This place is FULL of dreadlocked hippies. Lots of English ones too. I am going to avoid them. This is the Spanish Dunmanway. 

Monday 28 March 2016

With beer and A poncho in Lanjaron

11 miles walked in 4.07 hours. Quite a lot of up and even more down! See Strava for more details. Beautiful weather and some predictable thigh chafing and potential sunburn. Luckily I have a buff for the chafing!! Well supplied with water on the GR7. You can see the EU tax payers money has been well spent. And yes I am being sarcastic. You should see some of the daft and elaborate picnic areas in the middle of nowhere!!
Chief impressions from today are of dry tracks and sunshine, lots of almonds olives and pines, local people scratching a living with ancient rotivators and chainsaws.. There seem to be no nonSpanish tourists in this region of Spain. Not even the inevitable Germans. I've passed Cortigos with threshing semi-circles, Eagles and buzzards (I tried to take a photo Andrew) but no other walkers.

So now to enjoy the beer and plan what to do this afternoon. The castle at Lanjaron definitely merits a visit.
More later. X

Niguelad to Lanjaron

Check out my 10.8 mi Walk on Strava: https://www.strava.com/activities/528976370

Sunday 27 March 2016

Supper at Niguelas

Well I've been lounging around for a few hours and spending some time in the bars. The attached pictures show you the kind of Tapas you get with a beer and also what I had for supper. It was a Menu del Dia "potage" or soup with three types of beans and some chorizo absolutely dripping with that. Supposedly bad for the health but it tasted gorgeous. So after that and the veeraly start I'm going to lie down and have a very early night tonight. Off to Lanjaron tomorrow.
Incidentally I've been watching Eddie Izard doing 27 marathons in 27 days on my iPad as a kind of relaxation. Quite inspiring. He seems like a nice bloke.

At Niguelas

I woke up at 5 which would be 4 in old time. The bus driver dropped me off in the dark about 2 km from Niguelas so I walked up the road and got here at about 8 AM. Everything was shut. In fact the shops are shut all day today. So I walked along one of the old acequias and up some hills to see the famous landslide falls of Niguelas. And then I drank some coffee and walked some more. I've checked into my hotel now which is lovely and I'm washing some socks.
Now I feel rather tired and might even have a nap!! Certainly an early night is called for.
Breakfast isn't until 9 o'clock in the morning so will have to try not to get up at six.

Saturday 26 March 2016

Casual bus drivers

Well I am ON the bus to Niguelas and all it has to do is start moving!! The driver is roving around Granada bus station getting coffee, chatting, smoking on the bus.. Definitely a case of manana. It is rather chilly this morning and definitely very dark still at 7 a.m. I am slightly regretting the shorts.
But I think I will get a gorgeous sunrise very soon and the weather forecast is good. So adios Granada. I'd like to come back here and visit properly.

Granada by night

I have walked around lots. Granada is absolutely throbbing with life tonight. It really reminds me of Seville and Santiago and Competa a bit. Lots of narrow hilly streets with cats and unexpected Roman ruins. Lots of Moorish shops and bars. Beggars and homeless people;  cannabis and hookahs in the background. Glamorous women and less obesity than at home. I hope the photos do it justice.
I have to go to bed soon as I must be up at 5 and the clocks go back an hour tonight. Useful. NOT!!!🎃But I have established that even though all the shops are shut tomorrow the cafes and bars will be open. Niguelas bring it on!! 

H

Made it to Malaga. Teachers everywhere

My itinerary. Posted from Bournemouth airport

Hideous baggage delay.... Got bus to Granada with 2 mins to spare

Hopefully that is all the bad luck done with. So the fight was 1hour leaving... Everyone took so long boarding that we missed our slot. But the flight was good. I drank some wine and read about a Headteacher being murdered. So I thought I still had an hour for a cup of tea at Malaga. No Such Joy. I spen more than an hour waiting for our baggage to arrive. NIGHTMARE. It finally arrived at 5 to 4 and I literally SPRINTED to the bus stop with 2 minutes to spare
Oh the joy of getting a little paper bag with a cake thing and some water in. Headphones too. Spanish buses are the ultimate don... 
So now I am back on schedule and can relax. Happy days. 

Friday 25 March 2016

Pre trip preparations..

So Andrew cooked a lovely breakfast and then after that I packed my bag. The final weight is 8 kg. The weather is lovely and I am so looking forward to being in Spain tomorrow.

Wednesday 23 March 2016

Packing for Spain

Here are the things I'm planning to take with me on Saturday. I've been as minimal as I can but I still have to fit them all into my rucksack. I have no luxuries at all here so no chocolate and no book.