South American footsteps: 24 April - Strathan to Glenfinnan (and on to Fort William)

Day 17: 24 April 2011

Strathan to Glenfinnan (and on to Fort William)

(9.5 miles 4 hours walking)

I woke up at about 5 a.m. – after a lovely night’s sleep – very hot and damp and with a wet head from the condensation. However, none of that bothered me in the slightest as I was heading for Fort William today with a light pack and a light heart. I had porridge and coffee, looked at my camping kit nostalgically, and then packed it all away for the last time.

I was rather sad to leave such a beautiful place, but the real world, work, and my loved ones called me. And I realised that I would come back one day and it probably wouldn’t be so different.

I was very lucky with the weather, as I managed to de-camp before it started raining. The weather got worse throughout the day and it rained steadily from about 8 a.m. onwards.

The ascent of Bealach a’ Chaorainn (471m) was boggy but uneventful. I smiled when I came across the deep footprints left by the Belgians with their extremely heavy packs! They were very conspicuous!

This photograph of a stunted tree – a silver birch or alder – was taken looking NE towards Strathan.

From Bealach a’ Chaorainn I descended SW along a good path and down into Glen Finnan. The countryside was beautiful, and gave no real hint that I was approaching the end of my journey. I was glad of that.

The Cairn at the summit of Bealach a’ Chaorainn

Looking SW down the valley from Bealach a’ Chaorainn towards Glen Finnan.

The path crosses and re-crosses the River Finnan several times until it becomes a tarmacced track near Corryhully.

I met several walkers this day, mainly Munro-bagging.

The weather was overcast and misty, but didn’t deter the real outdoors lovers, most of whom had GPS’s clutched in their hands.

I spoke to many of the walkers and told them I was just finishing the Cape Wrath Trail. I found myself surprisingly touched and quite tearful when people congratulated me. They were genuinely impressed by my achievement, and their happiness in my success helped me to realise that I had actually competed something quite difficult. It was funny but until I met these people it had just felt like going for a rather long walk.

The last two miles were, as always, the hardest part of the journey

I met a fabulous couple, in their 70s at least, who were just starting the CWT (their second time of doing it) after completing the

West Highland Way

; they were doing the two walks back-to-back. They were using map and compass and were not afraid. I was extremely pleased to meet them and inspired to think I could still be having adventures into my early old age. Respect.

We talked for a while about sending on food parcels, obsessively weighing gear, lightweight waterproofs, etc. They were lovely people and I felt really in tune with their way of thinking.

They took this photo of me near Glenfinnan Viaduct.

From here onwards there was no escaping it; the adventure was going to end. I finally got a phone signal and was able to send a text message to Andrew, and my blog, saying that I was O.K. and had made it. At 11.00 a.m. I arrived at Glenfinnan National Trust Office, and had a cup of tea and a sandwich. It was raining and rather gloomy. I spent about an hour trying to hitch-hike to Fort William (which was rather further away than I had thought!!) with no success, getting wetter and less pick-up-able by the minute. There was a train to Fort William which left at 4.53 p.m., but the thought of spending 4 hours in a visitor centre was pretty soul-destroying.

So I was delighted to be picked up by 2 angels driving a Skoda, who I had approached (rather desperately) on their way into the visitor centre. They told me that they had changed their plans for the day, partly out of pity for me, and would take me the 18 miles to Fort William.

I was very very grateful.

They were angels. No doubt about it.

And then I was in Fort William. I remembered the town from finishing the West Highland Way. I checked where the station was, bought myself a sandwich from Morrison’s for my epic train journey tomorrow, and found the Bank Street Lodge Hostel (where I would be staying that night). Then I emailed my friend Kate, who I had tenuously arranged to meet that night in Fort William. She was due to start the CWT the next day, so we had one evening of overlap to share stories/news about the experience.

Finally I went to the ‘Volunteer’ pub for a pint and wrote up my trip notes for the day.

I got someone to take my photo in Fort William High Street
– this is just after I arrived and I’m clutching my Morrison’s sandwich.

This is me and Kate in the Pub frequented by walkers in Fort William. A good spot.

The Bank Street Lodge Hostel was clean, comfortable and had everything you could want. It was very close to the town centre, had a drying room and clean kitchen, and it was staffed 24 hours a day. A nice young man staying there, who took people out on boat trips, was persuaded to remove a tic from my back while the lady on reception chaperoned us. I sincerely hoped I wouldn’t find any more of the blighters.

I had a lovely evening in Fort William with some of the other walkers staying at the hostel and didn’t think about work at all.

Messages sent from my phone that day:

Fort william: mission accomplished. I met some angels this morning. So thats that. I am not sure what to say really. Very proud of myself and happy.