21 April - Glen Affric Youth Hostel to Cluanie Inn

Day 14:    21 April 2011

Glen Affric Youth Hostel to Cluanie Inn

(7 miles           4 hours walking)

I didn’t sleep too well in my bunk-bed – I was itchy and restless (which was possibly a mild reaction to tic bites) and was awake at 5 a.m. After listening to the sound of silence for a while I got up at 6 a.m. and went for an early morning walk to the bridge across the river. There is a beautiful suspension bridge to cross which resonated (swayed alarmingly) as I crossed it again later in the morning.

Here you can see the bridge across the River Affric and Alltbeithe hostel in the background.

It was another warm, calm, hazy day and perfect for walking. Once again I counted my blessings.

I had tea and a chat with Colin, porridge for breakfast, and left the Youth Hostel at 09.00

Spanish ‘Momo’ said goodbye and left at 08.30, telling me I would certainly catch up with him. He was aiming for the same destination as myself but thought he would be slowed down by his sore knee and huge pack. However I never did see him again, despite his bad knee and 30+ kg of baggage! (Momo had arrived left at Alltbeithe a few days before, very overburdened with food, lap-top etc, and had needed a day of rest before returning to ground level. We had made a tenuous arrangement to walk to Cluanie together)

I noted in my journal that there was still no mobile phone reception, and it had been more than 2 days since I had uploaded a picture and message to my blog.

The path from the suspension bridge followed the River Affric SW for about a Kilometre and then headed almost due south along An Caorann Mor. I have to say that this path was, for about 4 km, pure bog. I endured 3 and a half hours of sinking into squidgy sphagnum, sliding down boggy slopes, jumping over black muck, and getting gradually wetter and wetter feet. It was absolutely exhausting to walk on, and not helped by the occasional misleading ‘path’ created by 4 wheel drive tracks.

Still it was stunning countryside, there was no getting away from it. I kept expecting to catch up with Momo but there was no sign of him.

In the valley adjacent to the eastern slope of Am Bathach the boggy path finally joined a proper track, which was a huge relief. I stopped for a break under the slopes of A Chralaig (1120m) and heard the bizarre sound of a snipe. The sound made by this bird is really strange, and doesn’t sound like any other bird I have ever heard; it was more like the sound of wind whistling through telegraph wires. The sound appeared to come from the sky, but however hard I peered upwards and around me, I could see no birds.

I was still listening to the sound, bemused and wondering if I was going insane, when I met two men wearing shorts and intending to ascend Ciste Dhubh (979m). I don’t know what their names were but they had two Highland Terriers called Hamish and Angus. One of them (the men, not the dogs!!) was a professional landscape photographer, and took this photograph of me. They hadn’t heard the strange birdsong so I kept quiet about it, in case I was actually going insane...!

I continued the descent to the busy A87, on the slopes of Loch Cluanie. There was still no phone reception, although I kept trying to send a text message every kilometre or so, convinced Andrew would be thinking I was dead and would send out the search parties for me!

From the A87 it was a one mile walk west along the main road to Cluanie Inn. This was a very fast road and no pleasure to walk along. Still, the weather was warm and dry, and the pub beckoned.

When I got there all my hopes were realised, although there was still no phone reception and the tempting phone box said ‘Emergency Calls Only’.

My first duty was to phone up Andrew from the phone box in the pub. My second duty was to get a pint of cider and a packet of cheese and onion crisps and to sit in the sun and enjoy them. It was pure pleasure. There were other travellers around, who pitched up in cars at regular intervals, ate in the sun, and drove off again.

I checked in quite early (at about 3 p.m.) and had a lovely hot bath and (not so lovely) tic removal session. I had a nap before supper and watched an episode of Midsomer Murders on the television in my room.

That evening I ate something proteinacious (fish and chips I believe) at the bar, and drank red wine in the company of various walkers who appeared and disappeared. I spent a rather jolly evening talking about kit/routes/philosophy to other like-minded people. My intention to have an early night did not materialise.

Near glen affric. Hazy but hot. Very wet ground desite no rain for a week. The mountains just go on forever.

22 April - Cluanie Inn to Tomdoun

Day 15:    22 April 2011

Cluanie Inn to Tomdoun

(13 miles         6 a three quarter walking)

I had a FABULOUS breakfast of Altinabuie kippers (from a local Loch), scrambled eggs, toast and marmalade and orange juice, all washed down with lots of tea. Then I paid my bill and headed off into the hills.

It was another hot, dry, sunny, hazy day, and I wore a T-shirt from the start.

(N.B. As I write from my home in Wiltshire this on 28^th May, I have switched on the central heating at home for the first time in weeks!!) I saw lots of deer today.

The path was initially an excellent track heading approximately south towards Loch Loyne. It was easy to walk on and sloped steadily uphill, skirting Creag a’ Mhaim. I saw two other walkers in the distance early this day, but believe they were bagging nearby Corbetts and Munros and would eventually return to their cars on the main road. At the top of the valley, before the track crossed Allt Giubhais, I took a smaller track west. The main continued ESE to Loch Loyne and ultimately ended in a dead end at the lakeside shore, according to the map!

At this stage I went quite astray and missed another fork in the path, causing me to take a completely unnecessary detour to the summit of Creag a Mhaim (947m). I realised about half way up (having come out of my happy trance) that I was quite astray, but the bloody-minded cell in my brain made me continue to the summit, and I didn’t regret it.

Then I descended down through “the Valley that Time Forget” (or so it felt) to the north of Creag Liathtais to the epic River Loyne Valley. This was a great place; lonely, surrounded by mountains, and utterly unspoilt.

I met a real CWT ‘er here on his third day from Fort William. We swapped trip notes and thoughts about the route. He had attempted the route before, and had failed (he said) due to the speed and distance he believed he could cover.

On his first attempt he had walked from Glenfinnan to Tomdoun in one day; not to be recommended. This is him heading north (the way I had come) after our meeting at the River Loyne. He was the only other walker I met all day.

I really needed all my micro-navigational skills for this part of the day, as the path through the valley and across the river Loyne was not at all clear. Again, my 1:25,000 map proved indispensable, as I was able to identify and find an almost perfectly circular island in the River, which I used to precisely fix my position. The path through the wooded enclosure south of the River was also not clear, and the trees were mostly cut down, so I relied upon a compass bearing and mark one eyeball. There were two very large (and hard to climb with a heavy pack) stiles marking the path entry and exit routes through the enclosure, and these helped me find the correct route.

Looking back NW into the River Loyne Valley from Coire Dubh Mam na Seilg

Once these navigational hazards had been conquered, the path became clearer and it was a steady ascent and steep descent to the pretty road following Glen Garry.

Quite close to the road, while descending (of course), I fell flat on my face and was pretty certain I had really damaged my knee. However after a few minutes lying with my face in the mud and my pack pressing me down, I realised I would have to try to move. I wriggled my leg and managed to stand up. My knee was sore but not worse than normal, so I carried on gingerly and was soon walking quite confidently. It was a wake-up call reminding me of the dangers of solo walking.

The warning on this sign that I was entering (exiting in my case) “remote, sparsely populated, potentially dangerous mountain country” was heeded.

I decided that I would continue to Tomdoun Hotel, as I had some idea that the owner allowed people to camp in his grounds, and I thought it would be nice to have a meal there. I was starting to think about the end of the trip, and wanted to make the most of the last few days. And after all I was on holiday!!! The detour added an extra 1.5 miles to my trip and was quite a hard slog along the tarmacced road, but was worth it.

The owner of Tomdoun Hotel showed me where I could camp about 100m from the hotel, on land owned by the hotel. The site was dry and there were some useful trees for tarp attachment points. It was quite windy and there was rain in the air, so I used all my spare guys.

I sat outside the hotel for a while with a party of men from Edinburgh who were on a ‘fishing’/mountain biking holiday. They were very friendly.

We saw an osprey in the distance and many swallows. The view across the valley was excellent.

I asked the owner if I could have supper there and he said “we eat at 7.30”. I started to be aware that my only spare shoes were crocs, and I had no skirt etc, but it didn’t matter too much.

The food was cordon bleu and served under chandeliers. I had cod and the Scottish cheeseboard (to replenish my protein levels) and it was excellent. I sat down with another walker called Steve, an Australian called Hazel, and her girlfriend (the chef at the hotel) whose name was Celestine. The seven fishermen from Edinburgh were on an adjacent table. Afterwards we all gathered around the Grand Piano and sang songs. I was persuaded to play the piano (badly) and sing, but the landlord’s girlfriend, a Polish (?) woman, was a real expert on the piano. There were 140 different whiskies at the bar and I tried some Glenmorangie, in memory of the film “Highlander”.

I was treated with great respect all evening despite the fact I was wearing crocs, would be sleeping in a tent, and my handbag was my orange food bag (converted).

 If you want a fabulous experience with a touch of the surreal added in, come here. I felt as if I had wandered into an Agatha Christie book.

This was sent from my phone at same stage today...

Phone reception at last! All is well. I am half way between cluanie and tomdoun. Weather is perfect. No midges. Mountains are breathtaking. Awesome. Do i really have to go back to work on tuesday?

My camp for tonight. Got a long 18 mile day tomorrow and rain forecast for the morning so hoping for my good luck to continue. Staying in tomdoun tonight.

23 April - Tomdoun to Strathan

Day 16:    23 April 2011

Tomdoun to Strathan

 (19.5 miles             8 and a half hours walking)

Today was my Wedding Anniversary.

Today I walked 19.5 miles and failed, despite repeated attempts, to get enough signal to tell my husband I was thinking about him and how glad I was I had married him. He has always remembered that I asked him to “tread softly upon my dreams” and has let me have my adventures. It goes both ways. He managed to get a message through to me though, from the B & Q car park in Harlow, Essex!

The first few hours were pretty hard-going. The path was very good but I had only slept for 4 hours (completely self-inflicted I know) and was feeling a bit tired in the morning. I woke at 6 a.m., de-camped in the rain, ate porridge, and was walking by 7.15 a.m.  The weather for most of the day was cool, hazy, occasionally sunny and sometimes windy. It felt quite benevolent really.

The first 4 hours consisted of a long march through the wood to the south of Glen Garry. I walked at a good pace back along the road from Tomdoun Hotel, and then continued tramping through the wood, getting damp in my waterproofs due to external and internal humidity. I wanted to get this part of the walk over with. The navigation was not difficult and the track clear and easy to walk on.

Luckily the woodland wasn’t dense enough to be oppressive, and eventually thinned out as the path came out of the woodland and headed almost due west towards Sgurr an Fhuarainn (901m). By this time the track had become a path, but navigation was easy throughout the morning and the paths easy to find and follow.

It didn’t last!

Once out of the woodland I found a small stream, filled up my kettle, and rewarded myself with a very welcome cup of coffee. For the first time on the entire trip, I used a compeed to cover a ‘Hot Spot’ on my right foot. The countryside ahead was open and majestic, and I felt my spirits lift. I knew I had covered about half of the day’s route, and the second half was going to be the better one. I much prefer bare mountains to walking through woodland, which felt like walking with a blindfold after the open mountain scenery I was accustomed to.

The path heads due west and, rather than following a contour line, ascends to a Bealach between Gairich Beag and Sgurr an Fhuarainn. I have no idea why the path does this, but followed the climbing route despite the apparent detour as the path was clear and I am not a great fan of bog!! From the Bealach the path turns abruptly south and descends into a beautiful valley, with the wide River Kingie running through it.

 This view is looking West towards Sgurr an Fhuarainn

The route across the River Kingie was slightly unclear, and I donned my crocs to cross it as I thought the river was too deep and flowing too fast for the rubble sacks technique to work.

This valley was another hidden, secret place, full of awe and wonder. I heard another strange whistling sound here and spent about 5 minutes looking for the source of the distress, convinced it was an emergency whistle. I was on the point of pulling off my rucksack and taking some sort of action (I’m still not sure what I would have done) when I saw some very active birds and realised it must be them! I hope there aren’t two corpses in that valley I could have saved.

The path south to the western end of Loch Arkaig passes two fabulous old houses labelled ‘Kinbreak’ on my map, and then heads south and ascends a path following Allt a’ Chinn Bhric.

From Kinbreak the ascent was O.K. but boggy, and there some annoying FWD (Four Wheel Drive) tracks to mislead and divert me. I ended up climbing much too high up the west side of the valley, and would advise any walkers to stay closer to the stream when taking this route. Unfortunately there seem to be at least 2 alternative routes through this valley, and neither path is easy to follow. Once at Feith a Bhrolaich I took a bearing and headed SW towards Strathan. The woodland provided an easy marker.

Strathan itself did not seem a particularly friendly place to camp, so I forced myself, with my last reserves of energy, to continue along the track west and finally pitched camp just after I crossed the river Pean, on the west side of Allt a Chaorainn. From here I could see the way I would take tomorrow, on my last day. Time seemed to be slipping away from me and I had no real desire for the adventure to end, as I knew it would...

I had collected some water from a very small stream near Strathan, as the River Pean looked too big to drink from. I pitched my last camp, brewed up a pasta/cup-a-soup mix, read my book for a while, and dozed. Then I had a wash in the stream, ate some pasta (my last bag meal) and went to chat to my neighbours. There was a young couple camping about 100m south from me, and 2 Belgians about 100m north from me. The Belgians were doing the CWT according to Brook and Hinchcliffe; in other words the definitive route. They were carrying (and this beggar’s belief to me) 21 days worth of food with them. Each! Their packs weighed 24 and 26 kg respectively. They had a water purifier and were using that religiously. I had boiled my water but must admit that on occasion I had drank directly form the streams, and had not suffered any stomach upsets (but that could be down to luck). But I think, at that time of the year and in that part of the world, most fresh water is fairly unpolluted and safe to drink.

The evening was really cold and I soon got back into my tent and was asleep by 8 p.m. Once again there was no mobile reception and I tried all day to tell Andrew I had not forgotten our wedding Anniversary!

The view from inside the coffin

The last night of my adventure

24 April - Strathan to Glenfinnan (and on to Fort William)

Day 17:    24 April 2011

Strathan to Glenfinnan (and on to Fort William)

(9.5 miles                4 hours walking)

I woke up at about 5 a.m. – after a lovely night’s sleep – very hot and damp and with a wet head from the condensation. However, none of that bothered me in the slightest as I was heading for Fort William today with a light pack and a light heart. I had porridge and coffee, looked at my camping kit nostalgically, and then packed it all away for the last time.

I was rather sad to leave such a beautiful place, but the real world, work, and my loved ones called me. And I realised that I would come back one day and it probably wouldn’t be so different.

I was very lucky with the weather, as I managed to de-camp before it started raining. The weather got worse throughout the day and it rained steadily from about 8 a.m. onwards.

The ascent of Bealach a’ Chaorainn (471m) was boggy but uneventful. I smiled when I came across the deep footprints left by the Belgians with their extremely heavy packs! They were very conspicuous!

This photograph of a stunted tree – a silver birch or alder – was taken looking NE towards Strathan.

From Bealach a’ Chaorainn I descended SW along a good path and down into Glen Finnan. The countryside was beautiful, and gave no real hint that I was approaching the end of my journey. I was glad of that.

The Cairn at the summit of Bealach a’ Chaorainn

Looking SW down the valley from Bealach a’ Chaorainn towards Glen Finnan.

The path crosses and re-crosses the River Finnan several times until it becomes a tarmacced track near Corryhully.

I met several walkers this day, mainly Munro-bagging.

The weather was overcast and misty, but didn’t deter the real outdoors lovers, most of whom had GPS’s clutched in their hands.

I spoke to many of the walkers and told them I was just finishing the Cape Wrath Trail. I found myself surprisingly touched and quite tearful when people congratulated me. They were genuinely impressed by my achievement, and their happiness in my success helped me to realise that I had actually competed something quite difficult. It was funny but until I met these people it had just felt like going for a rather long walk.

The last two miles were, as always, the hardest part of the journey

I met a fabulous couple, in their 70s at least, who were just starting the CWT (their second time of doing it) after completing the

West Highland Way

; they were doing the two walks back-to-back. They were using map and compass and were not afraid. I was extremely pleased to meet them and inspired to think I could still be having adventures into my early old age. Respect.

We talked for a while about sending on food parcels, obsessively weighing gear, lightweight waterproofs, etc. They were lovely people and I felt really in tune with their way of thinking.

They took this photo of me near Glenfinnan Viaduct.

From here onwards there was no escaping it; the adventure was going to end. I finally got a phone signal and was able to send a text message to Andrew, and my blog, saying that I was O.K. and had made it. At 11.00 a.m. I arrived at Glenfinnan National Trust Office, and had a cup of tea and a sandwich. It was raining and rather gloomy. I spent about an hour trying to hitch-hike to Fort William (which was rather further away than I had thought!!) with no success, getting wetter and less pick-up-able by the minute. There was a train to Fort William which left at 4.53 p.m., but the thought of spending 4 hours in a visitor centre was pretty soul-destroying.

So I was delighted to be picked up by 2 angels driving a Skoda, who I had approached (rather desperately) on their way into the visitor centre. They told me that they had changed their plans for the day, partly out of pity for me, and would take me the 18 miles to Fort William.

I was very very grateful.

They were angels. No doubt about it.

And then I was in Fort William. I remembered the town from finishing the West Highland Way. I checked where the station was, bought myself a sandwich from Morrison’s for my epic train journey tomorrow, and found the Bank Street Lodge Hostel (where I would be staying that night). Then I emailed my friend Kate, who I had tenuously arranged to meet that night in Fort William. She was due to start the CWT the next day, so we had one evening of overlap to share stories/news about the experience.    

Finally I went to the ‘Volunteer’ pub for a pint and wrote up my trip notes for the day.

 
 
 
I got someone to take my photo in Fort William High Street
– this is just after I arrived and I’m clutching my Morrison’s sandwich.

This is me and Kate in the Pub frequented by walkers in Fort William. A good spot.

The Bank Street Lodge Hostel was clean, comfortable and had everything you could want. It was very close to the town centre, had a drying room and clean kitchen, and it was staffed 24 hours a day. A nice young man staying there, who took people out on boat trips, was persuaded to remove a tic from my back while the lady on reception chaperoned us. I sincerely hoped I wouldn’t find any more of the blighters.

I had a lovely evening in Fort William with some of the other walkers staying at the hostel and didn’t think about work at all.

Messages sent from my phone that day:

Fort william: mission accomplished. I met some angels this morning. So thats that. I am not sure what to say really. Very proud of myself and happy.



Nearly there after 2 days camping. Feeling a bit emotional and rather in need of a shower and a pint. Yippee! Weather is damp

25 April - Fort William Bunkhouse Hostel to HOME

Day 18:    25 April 2011

Fort William Bunkhouse Hostel to HOME

(several hundred miles          12 hours on 4 trains)

Today I caught 4 different trains to get from Fort William to Salisbury in Wiltshire.

According to AA Routemaster this journey is 512 miles.

Train 1: Fort William to Glasgow. (30 minutes to complete a mad dash across Glasgow to change from

Glasgow Queen Street

to Glasgow Central)

Train 2: Glasgow to Crewe (8 mins to change here)

Train 3: Crewe to Newport, Wales!!! (Yes, but anything rather than go through London and face the underground on a Bank Holiday weekend….) (10 mins to change here)

Train 4: Newport to Salisbury

Miraculously, none of the trains were delayed enough for me to miss my connections. So good old British Rail I say.

I left FTW at 07.42 and arrived at Salisbury at 19.32 Andrew met me there.

A few final thoughts about the Cape Wrath Trail

Good things:

1. The weather was brilliant and I was extremely lucky. I only experienced steady rain on 2 days of the entire trip.
2. The scenery was awesome. Stunning. Epic. Beautiful. Comforting.
3. I had no blisters and no health problems (apart from a slightly dodgy knee)
4. I met some wonderful, like-minded people and felt part of the way of life in the highlands.
5. I like porridge more than when I left.
6. PPPPPP (Prior Planning Prevents Piss Poor Performance). It all worked out.

Bad things:

1. Tics
2. Knockdampy Bothy
3. Lack of phone reception
4. Tics

Other things:

1. The lack of people walking at this time of year surprised me. It is important to remember that you are on your own, with no phone reception, and the chances are that nobody will pass you by chance for 24 hours (or more). So it is really important not to get injured.
2. It is foolish to attempt to walk more than 17-18 miles a day and complete such a long walk unless you are seriously fit. I averaged less than 2 mph most days, with fair weather. The ground was boggy, the going hard, the terrain steep and the pack heavy. I met several people who had overestimated the distance they could happily walk in a day. 10-15 miles a day is enough for most mortals.
3. I drank happily from the smaller streams but know not everyone did that.
4. Travel light. Be obsessive about it. It really really works. I carried 13 – 16 (max) kg and that was enough. I am 5’ 4” and average height/build.

So it is finished. Words are not enough really. An experience like that takes some assimilating. I think it has changed me in a small way and I believe I must do this again. I want to go back to Knockdamph Bothy and hope to go the right way off Conival next time. I will certainly go back and when I do the CWT again I will go from south to north and get to Cape Wrath.

The Gods really smiled on me and I know I have been in many people’s thoughts and prayers. I am very grateful for that.

 

Sent from my phone:
I have been very lucky and my 4 trains have been on time. So it looks like i will have to go to work tomorrow after all. Surreal. The real world was waiting for me all the time.

Thursday 7th April

I day to go before I fly to Inverness. From then on I go by foot...
I have checked in (online) and have written my final list for tomorrow- contact lenses, cash, phone and charger, etc. I just hope I don't forget something really important. The trouble is that I have pared my list of essential items down to the absolute bare minimum, so if I forget the smallest thing (e.g. my fire-steel) it could cause me big problems. Lets hope my list system has worked. My flight from Southampton is at 3.45 tomorrow afternoon, and I arrrive at Inverness at 21.05. I am staying at Inverness Scottish Youth Hostel (SYA) tomorrow night
I have been reminded today of the essential niceness of most people, and have received unexpected support when it was most needed. My sincere thanks go to the cast of 'Alice' for inviting me to join them for pizza at 5.30 - especially Kieran (the director), Charlotte (who kindly bought the pizzas) and Jack (whose 16th birthday it was).
Thanks also to the parents of a Year 7 pupil who have sponsored me an extremely generous amount for my CWT venture, despite the fact that I wrote them a letter than could only have caused disappointment. I am also really pleased to think that someone apart from my husband is interested in where I will be and what the countryside will look like!

.

Thanks to Yvonne and Sam for sharing the fun experience of being a frog and applying face make-up, and to Shirly for showing us how it should be done.

Do a sun dance for me. I will keep you posted as often as possible about my adventure - mobile phone reception permitting.
Rachel

Wednesday 6th April

Only 2 days to go!!
Tomorrow at this time I will be dressing up as a frog (again) for my part in Alice in Wonderland - the school play - ably directed by our own Kieran Gates.


The trio of frogs - I am the blurry one on the right

Today was a performance for the Primary school children and Year 7 pupils. It probably wasn't the most useful training I could have had for my 204 mile walk, but it reduced the stress levels slightly.
Tonight I am going to finish my packing and have a last evening with my husband before the adventure begins... HURRAH!!!

Monday 4th April

I went dancing tonight - Irish set dancing is my passion - and I had an excellent and completely stress-free time as usual. Eileen McCarthy made up a sponsor form for me and, completely unasked for, made an annonuncement about my CWT walk to the rest of the dancers. I was really chuffed when some of them immediately sponsored me and even handed over the money. What faith!
Michael offered to come with me and carry my rucksack, but if I needed a sherpa, I'd want someone with a few more years under their belt or my husband might get jealous!

Dancing with Patrick

Photos of set dancing always come out blurred - it is quite a quick form of dancing and certainly good training for the walk, particularly for building up stamina. I dance for about 2 hours every Monday night. 
But far beyond any physical benefits, I believe dancing is good for the soul. And since I am a compulsive worrier, it is the perfect way to take my mind off the little demons that keep trying to enter my head and take me away from the happy moments (and there are many of them) in my daily life. It is impossible to be thinking about naughty pupils/work/annoying teachers when you are trying to remember the next step in the Televara set, or almost paralytic with laughter as someone tries to go the wrong way round the chain during the High Cauled Cap. I am sometimes laughing so hard I can barely stand, never mind dance with any grace! It is pure joy.
So to the devil with anti-depressants I say.... go dancing.