Breakfast in Ourense

Well I finally reached the outskirts of Ourense and this cafe at 10 a.m. The first open cafe I passed and I wasn't going to walk on by! The 'pincho' de tortilla was huge but I have eaten it all con mucho gusto
The walk down into Ourense was interesting but mot beautiful. I went through an industrial estate that looked like a suburb of London. There were hidden gems though; lovely churches hidden away and lush gardens full of grapes, gigs and fountains.
Now i have to find an open shop to buy a swimming costume, and then for the thermal baths. Moe that i am really looking forward ti as my fret ache. More later. My email is rachel@eveling.net of anyone has a specific question for me about my route. Get in touch !

The state of my hat...

Well its 8.15 on a Sunday morning and al the 5 bars I have passed were closed. They weren't when I left X de A this morning at 5.30! No, but dauntingly full of drunken Spaniards. One of them tried to send me the wrong way so I decided not to ask for a coffee there...
Anyway, it has been an interesting morning, with the hardest navigation so far. It feels quite well populated here so there are lots of small paths, intersecting with roads and farmyards. Both torches have been essential, mainly to avoid being run over by the drunken drivers enjoying their weekend a bit too much!
It was cloudy but I did see one meteor as I left the hostal, which was great. The planetary alignment was not visible, disafortunatamente.
I have been alarmed by dogs barking on many occasions, and fine sneaky ones have enjoyed waiting for me to get really close to them before howling!
But it has been really fun. Time flies when you are hunting yellow arrows in the dark..
My hat is disintegrating and will be burnt when I get to Finisterra.  

Xunqueira de Ambria

So I am safely arrived in the hostel and Ernesto is here too. There are also 2 German girls who are walking to Santiago. I saw another meteor this morning and the first part of the day was a fairly gentle climb in the dark. Then it was downhill from Albergueria onto a plateau. I walked through some beautiful Galician villages where people were gardening and all wished me buen Camino.
I saw my first horreos today. The weather was stunning again, and lovely clouds enhanced the day.
So it seems as if these 3 at least will be going to Ourense tomorrow. I am going to get up early, do some more star-gazing, buy a swimming costume, and try out the thermal springs at Ourense. That is a plan.
I might write less often because I am being hassled by my phone company for using too much data. The buggers.  

Xunqueira de Ambria

Well this is the most footsore I have felt so I am glad tomorrow is a fairly short day. The 3 Spanish cycling amigos arrived at the hostal and we went to A cafe and had a traditional Galician sort of fish pie which was lovely. Tonight I will cook in the hostel kitchen - tomatoes, a tin of mussels and lots of garlic I think...
The mosquitoes have been busy today but I haven't been bitten so perhaps my garlic cure is working! I am using Autun as well just in case.
It is definitely cooler today but still bloody hot. A sea breeze helps a lot.  

Albergueria

Coffee and shells. Bliss. And rock and roll music!

Sunrise 11 August

Half past 7. 14 deg C. About 1 hour from Albergueria. Saw a beautiful shooting star this morning at about 6. Love walking in the dark and  getting used to how cold it is early! A luego.

The three amigos

This is to Ana, Angela and your kind father whose name no me aquerda. Perdon. I was very happy to get your message and  it is nice to know you were thinking of me. The walk today was glorious, beautiful and only hot for the last hour. I would like to it again pero mas despacio! I loved the grapes and your message and have  been hearing potatoes... Please follow my progress to Finisterra and know that I will take you with me to lighten the weight of my rucksack. I am having a lovely time in Spain and am very glad I met you three. Best regards, Rachel x

This is war....

I have bought some really strong garlic and I am going to eat lots of it. I also have some midge repellent. So that might keep the buggers away tomorrow. This afternoon I found a lovely bar with air conditioning in Laza and have spent an hour there eating olives and reading a Tintin book in Spanish. It is 8 and the locals are just starting to venture onto the streets, sitting in their gardens and in the street in little animated gaggles. There seems to be few young people here, a sign of bad times I suppose.
I have completely lost my appetite in this exhausting heat and am looking forward to another 2 hours in the dark tomorrow as it Is a 21 mile day to Xunqueiria. JOY.
Andrew, I will be un-kissable for weeks after all this garlic! Not that there is anyone in the hostal to kiss.... I am completely sola!

11 August

What I must add is that this was the best days walking by far until now. Stunning countryside, easy navigation and lovely people in the villages and bars. I didn't meet a soul walking though... Sun hat, factor 30 cream and lots of water...

Being in Laza

I got to Laza at about 1.30 and am safely in the hostal Conde Blanco (whatever that means). It was hard going for the last 4 miles: an uninspiring tramp downhill through trees with no real view ans occasional midges. I has forgotten to eat garlic and the midgets knew! Buy apart from that it was the best days walking so far. The stars were beautiful this morning ans I walked by moonlight for about 2 hours.
It nearly got off to A horrible start though. At half 5 this morning my walking shoes were locked in with the bikes and I thought I would have to wait for the hospidalero to turn up; luckily I found the key. Then at about 6 a.m. (still pitch black) I felt my back getting wet and discovered my camelback was broken. Not. A good day for this to happen, and I gave myself a good talking to before continuing.
Anyway these things are sent to try us. I also saw a shooting star so it wasn't all bad. And there is complementary arujo
in the hostal so I am doing well. I think another early start tomorrow is in order as the weather is hot again and may be thundery. Hmmm...
.

No words needed

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Arrived at Campobecerros

Well I arrived here quite tired but very happy at 9.30 and have never been so glad to see an open bar. So the prognosis for getting to  Laza is good. The Spanish weather forecast talks of 38 deg C this afternoon but I think it will be o.k. I have walked 20 km in 4 hours and have only 14 left (according to one guide anyway....)

Way markers in Galicia

Once you get to Galicia you start to get these way markers with ridiculously accurate distances to go.... For example this one says
237.536 km to Santiago de Compostela. Sadly many of the distance signs have been stolen and probably by pilgrims as souvenirs.
The other pilgrims in the albergue are the Spanish family who are fit and up for an early start and walk to Laza, 3 cyclists who are going to Campobecerros tomorrow to stay with family, and Ernesto who has really struggled with the heat today and is not sure what to do tomorrow. The hospidalero talked of 42 deg C tomorrow which is really quite scary. I am going to use more of my data allowance - which seems to be rapidly getting used up which is why I am sending fewer photos- to find a weather forecast.  

The friendly people

I want to say something about how nice people are on the Camino and in the towns. When I was walking along a road earlier passing drivers waved and honked their horns - yes old people and women too. A lady in Oscar's restuarant asked me to join her and her husband for lunch. And the Spanish man walking the Camino with 2 daughters asked after me in a bar when I got behind him and wasn't at the albergue. So they are nice, kind people the Spanish. And that is a good thing because there isn't anyone else much around! No Brits, Germans, Americans or Japanese. The albergues are fairly empty which is another good thing about walking in August. Still I will make a very early start tomorrow as it really looks like being seriously scorchio. 5 a.m. is likely.  

Safe to A Gudina

Well it was a long, hot slog to A Gudina but I got here at about 1.40. Then I asked in a cafe (Oscar) who were advertising a pilgrim menu what time they stopped doing lunch. They said 2 so I thought I would come straight in. I feel a bit sweaty and dusty but it is my main meal and I want a good one! Sopa de verdura and pesca con salads. Very good and only 9 Euro with coffee and water and pan. I have met some other pilgrims who are staying in the albergue too....

9 August leaving Lubian

I am in the only bar in lubian enjoying a coffee and bocadillilo after a great nights sleep in a very peaceful albergue. It only cost 5 Euro. The hospidalero arrived at 9 and was very friendly I spoke broken Spanish with him for about 30 minutes. Two Spanish cyclists arrived at about 9 p.m. as well and were very friendly so it was a nice evening. I am feeling fresh and relaxed this morning and intend taking my time over the relatively short - 16 mile - walk in beautiful weather and countryside. It is cool this morning but the sun in nearly up and I can see the yellow arrows.

Galicia

I do believe I have just arrived in Galicia. The climb up from Lubian was shady, steep and I was tormented by flies. I have been bitten and I even swallowed one. So tomorrow I will try if eating loads of garlic doesn't deter the buggers! Otherwise it is a beautiful day and I have no aches. The view is superb but the Sun makes a photo of the view from here impossible.

Summary of day 1

. 20 miles in 7 hours
. The straw hat made a huge difference and was a revelation to me.
. I used a pole for medicinal purposes and am very glad I bought them
. Gloves should always be taken (yes Allison!)r
. Stop whenever you can to sit and drink cold water in a bar: even for 2 minutes.
. Taking off my shoes and socks and putting my feet in a cold stream stopped a hot spot getting more painful
. Having a book on my "iphone" was very useful as I was effectively stranded in my room from 3 to 6 by the heat!
. The people are chilled and lovely. They remind me of West Cork folk.
. The stone houses are really built to last and beautiful.
. Roll on tomorrow. I am loving this.

A random photo of me with 'los Gallegos'. Friendly lot here in Lubian.

Lubian

There is one other walker at the hostel, a Spaniard called Ernesto. He is taking his time and took 2 days to get here from Puebla. Tomorrow he is also going to A Gudina so it seems I might have company of sorts in the albergues. There are many pictures and statues concerning the Camino and this is just one. By the way Andrew's thermometer gives shade temperature of 36 deg C at 5 today. Sleeping will be hard.

8 August Puebla de Sanabria to Lubian

Well the first full day has been fun and now I am in lubian where there is very much a siesta feeling. I think I have missed a wave of pilgrims although there is one pack in the albergue (minus owner currently). 2 cyclists left lubian albergue this morning and the only people at the hostel last night were 4 Spanish cyclists who I saw again this morning at requejo. But as there is only one bathroom at lubian albergue it might be a good thing it is quiet! The walk here was lovely - not brilliantly signed but sufficiently. I was tempted to stay on the N525 and almost missed the church at Torroso. That would have been a shame. The heat is intense but my straw hat is protecting my face and neck from most of it and is priceless as it let's heat through. Also priceless is ibuprofen gel as my knee is playing up again. So the only thing I wish I had brought this morning are my thin gloves! The menu del dia was lovely. I had melon and ham, fried chicken and salad, and finally torte st Jacques and coffee. Yummy. I only drank the one glass of wine or I wouldn't have found my way back to the albergue - and it is a maze trust me!  

Menu del dia in lubian

It is a good job I have arrived as the menu del dia comes with a whole bottle of wine. And Olympics too.

Sunrise at terroso

I happened to be at this most beautiful church when the Sun rose at 7.30

Terroso at 7.40

Well I have been walking for 2 hours and the Sun finally rose at about 7.30. Now I hope my fingers can thaw out ! The road from puebla is poorly signed but the n 252 is very quiet and after about 5 km there are a sudden plethora of Camino signs so I knew I was on the right track. It was really very cold this morning.

Pueblo de sanabria

Well I am on the Camino now. Caza de Luz is clean and organised and the ladies toilets is amazing. It costs 10 euros and doors close at 11 p.m. there is free wi-fi if you are very patient. The town is beautiful and I am listening to the Beatles with a beer.  An early start tomorrow is called for. There are 3 other people at the hostel but I haven't met them yet.

The first Amarillo flecha

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Zamora train station

I have just pulled into Zamora train station so will be looking for yellow arrows until I get to Puebla de Sanabria in about 1 hour. Spanish trains are excellent.

Leaving Madrid 7 August

Well chamartin station is all very well but I am glad to be on my way now. The train is wonderful and I am by a window so happy. I had a bit of an energy slump earlier and think I might lay off the Spanish coffee! Perhaps one a day is all my metabolism can deal with. I have had 3 this morning... The air temp is 29 deg C. I think Spain won a prize in the Olympic synchronized swimming; there was some excitement at the station earlier. I am glad it isn't all Team GB!

Just having a really great first (of many I hope!) Cafe con leche in a little bar near the hotel. The forecast is very purple but at the moment the streets are cool and beckoning. I finally feel as if I am on holiday. This is the last travel day before the serious walking begins and I am quite looking forward to having a purpose. More later.

Monday night in Madrid

Well I am in Spain and it is 11 p.m. and 27 degrees c. The forecast is for darned hot weather this week so I will have to walk in the dark to 'beat the heat'... It is wonderful to be here although Madrid is huge. I have been speaking some very dubious Spanish and worrying as usual about whether I need to leave a tip or not... Tomorrow I will get the train from chamartin to puebla de sanabria and then the fun really begins!

St James, patron saint of pilgrims, in the doom painting.

Doom painting in st Thomas's church Salisbury

The service at the cathedral was very inspiring. Afterwards I went to st Thomas's church which has a really beautiful doom painting

Saying a prayer

So I have just walked from home to Salisbury cathedral and am going to see if they will stamp my compostela. I doubt they will give me a bun... I am going to attend the service too. The weather is glorious and the pack feels light so I'm off to a good start.

6 august Salisbury

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Lunch in the new forest on 5 august 2012

Using the "face" camera after a breakfast of bacon, eggs, onion and tomatoes. Yumm! Now I need to go for a long walk to burn the calories. Well that can be arranged ..

Walking in the New Forest on 5th August

After about 7 miles and ready for breakfast!

We decided to go for a final leg stretch in the New Forest and took bacon, eggs, pre-fried onions and cooked tomatoes with us. Then we found a quiet patch and I fired up the Vargo Hexagonal Stove and trangier (meths burner) which make a great lightweight and effective combination for outdoors cooking.

Andrew was the chef and we had the most gorgeous breakfast washed down with coffee and a small glass of red wine.

There were dried bananas and cherries to follow. All in all it was a wonderful day and the sun shone on us brightly.

T minus one!!

This is the last day before I set off to walk from Puebla De S to Finisterrs and I think everything within my control is ready.
Last night we watched our Olympic athletes run, jump and throw things to glory and I was both humbled and inspired. Their hard work and perseverance paid off and I hope mine will in a more modest way.

My only worry is that the weather forecast even in northern Spain and Galicia seems extremely hot to me next week. I know I shouldn't complain and that "there is no such thing as the wrong sort of weather, only the wrong sort of clothing"....

However, struggling over mountains in temperatures of 34 Deg C isn't going to be easy!

My only other dilemma concerns how I am going to get to Salisbury Train station in the morning, a huge distance of about 8 km/5 miles. Of course I should walk, but if it is raining the prospect of walking by our beautiful Salisbury industrial estate on the A36 before a long journey on plane, train, bus and taxi to Madrid, might not be the best start to the day. I don't want to get sweaty before I leave the country!!

However if the weather is sunny I will definiately attach my scallop shell to my pack and begin the adventure with pride and a spring in my step as Bilbo Baggins would have done.

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A good omen.?

I just had supper with my husband at our local (The THree Crowns, Alderbury, Wiltshire) and he saw this arrow reflected by sunlight streaming in through the window in his beer glass. It made a good photo and I thought it might be a good sign for my camino.

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The weigh-in! August 3rd

The final weight of all the kit minus water. Hmmmm.. Too heavy by far!

This was the day I had been dreading - the weigh in.

The kit laid out

So the first photo shows all the kit I was planning to take (minus the waterproofs)

And now the kit packed into smaller bags...

Smaller bags to sub-divide the kit up

The Osprey - will it give me wings!!

And this is what it looks like all packed up to go...

A bit more about the Via de la Plata

In April 2012 I walked from Seville to Merida with my husband Andrew.
The weather was extremely cold to start with (I wore buff and gloves until lunchtime the first 3 days), and then absolutely scorchio (35 Deg C) at the end.

We saw lots of beautiful almond trees and cork oaks, harvested for their corky bark.

Beautiful red young cork oak bark



There were also many animals including pigs



Black pigs to make chorizo from



It was very rustic and we met very few other people.



We kept bumping into a lovely German/French couple who had met a few years previously while walking the Camino Frances. Both of them were walking after the loss of their partners, and had met each other while on their own Camino. Karl-Heinz (the German) was a youthful 73 and still lived in his house in Germany. Maris-Claire was 67 (?) going in 21 and still lived 400 miles away from Karl in her own house in France. They were both learning each others' language and were the most lovely sweet couple. We spent a few nights sharing a room in albergues with them and got to know them quite well.

Whatever time we got up and left the alberge, we would be sure to bump into "The Germans" before too long.

There was also Stuart from Northern Ireland and Steve from Texas.

Still getting to grips with the blogging process after a long period of inactivity and a new phone unlike any other I have owned...

Anyway, my husband took this photo of me on July 28th near Ashley Walk car park in the New Forest.
We had intended a 15 mile walk but I have been overdoing it a bit so we just did 8 miles in the end! But it was a lovely day and we saw ponies, foals, cattle, calves, deer, butterflies galore and very few people.

Via de la Plata - pre-departure notes.

Well I havefinally bitten the bullet and managed to work out how to write a blog of my trip to the Via de la Plata.
I depart from home (Wiltshire in the south of England) on 6th August, and should return home late on the 24th August - assuming my dear husband will pick me up from Bristol airport.

In that time I will have walked approx 230 miles (over 13 days) from Pueblo de Sanabria to Finisterre, via Santiago de Compostela and Muxia.

I suspect my 'Blog' will consist mainly of photos from my HTC phone with brief explanations of where I am, but if I can get to grips with the technology I will endeavour to say more about the heat, accommodation, and any other experiences worth sharing!!

Andrew and I walked from Seville to Merida in April of this year, and I have been training hard and also trying to learn Spanish. So I consider myself fairly well prepared.
We will see how it pans out!!

Attached is a picture of me looking foolish with 2 buffs on my legs (after some serious sunburn and chafing)

This picture shows me and Andrew relaxing in a bar near Zadra after walking many kilometres.

Getting nervous about the flight to Madrid on 6 August

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Phil monk and Alex with their torches

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Sent from my HTC One S on O2

Trying to upate from my HTC Phone!!

This is a test to see if this blog still works on my PC. If do I know the HTCis the problems!!!

treyr